posted 05-12-2005 05:55
I've also posted my review at
http://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowUserReviews-g1907 38-d215805-r3458080-Hilton_Craigendarroch-Ballater_Aberdeenshire_Scotland.html Itinerary highlights:
We flew JFK to Dublin on Aer Lingus, then Ryanair from Dublin to Aberdeen (we'd been warned and packed accordingly -- Ryanair allows one checked bag not to exceed 15 kg=33 pounds per person, and one 10 kg carryon).
Most of the roads are one lane in each direction, no divider, and people drive 50+ mph. This can be disconcerting when you're new to driving on the left; the tendency is to keep too far left. Occasionally it's a single-track road and quite often where the road goes through a town people have parked near or in the travel lane, in effect making the highway a single-track road too.
Our daily excursions were about 1.5 hours out and the same back, with amazing views most of the time. Mostly we had dinner in or near Ballater (one mile from the hotel) so all our driving was in daylight.
We pre-ordered a food pack that took care of most days' breakfasts (pound of bacon, pound of sausage, dozen eggs, starter-containers of orange juice and milk, block of double Gloucester cheese, tomatoes, pound of butter, bottle of oil, loaf of bread, 2 jars of jam, boxes of crackers, tea, instant coffee so bring or buy regular coffee since there is a coffeemaker in the room). I don't recall what we paid for it.
Driving from the airport we stopped at Drum Castle which was a wonderful introduction to the area (we felt safe leaving our suitcases in the car).
Later on various excursions we visited
Dufftown (center of the Speyside whisky area and we were there for the whisky festival and so joined a 2-hour dramble guided hike) and the Glenfiddich distillary (not a great tour but generous tasting; there's also a non-free connoisseur tour but the timing was wrong for us). The whisky shop in the center of town has every whisky you could want.
Corgarf Castle (fantastic photo opportunity)
Balmoral Estate. Wonderful grounds with audio guide and a glimpse into the castle; we also took the pony trek, expensive but worth it--go in the morning and you'll feel like royalty, arriving before visitor hours and the gate swings open just for you.
Loch Muick. It's on the Balmoral estate grounds, a 6-mile drive in; then a choice of easy or harder hikes with views of the Loch and, I suspect, Charles' hideaway on the far shore.
Town of Ballater. Window shopping and nice informal meals in Ballater Station and also Alexandra Hotel lounge bar. Fine dinner at Darroch Learg, although expensive, may be the best restaurant meal we've ever had. Also the hosts were friendly and the setting lovely.
Royal Lochnagar distillary (very informative tour).
Cawdor (Macbeth) Castle. Peculiar interior but wonderful gardens.
Crathes Castle. The best - - excellent inside and out with spectacular gardens.
Culloden Battlesite. Must go, more for what you'll learn than what you'll see. Like visiting Gettysburg from the Confederate side.
Stonehaven city and Dunnottar castle ruins. Park in Stonehaven and hike to Dunnottar. Gorgeous!
Elgin. Johnstons Cashmere (great tour, luxe shop) and especially Elgin Cathedral ruins (don't miss)
Findhorn beach on the North Seacoast (got some sunburn!)
Really no bad experiences, except our US dollars don't buy what they used to.
Enjoy!
[This message has been edited by rklein001 (edited 05-12-2005).]